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Nylon rope has four times the effective strength of raanila hemp, and will be far less affected by water and ice. It was developed for the army, and is far superior to any other climbing rope. Improperly used, a rope can spread disaster instead of preventing it (see chapters 15—17). It is the climber's lifeline when it is needed, and should be cared for accordingly (see p. 186). Resiliency is essential, and the climber should brush up on the elementary physics affecting rope when it is subjected to the various loads that are developed in mountaineering.
Ice ax.—Choice of the varying weights and lengths of ice axes will be determined by the purpose for which the ax is intended. For those who expect to use the ax primarily as a cane—its most frequent and prolonged use —cane length is preferable; that is, about half a person's height. A ski mountaineer or rock-climber may prefer a much shorter length if he intends, most of the time, to carry the ax in his pack. In any event the shaft should be of good hickory and fit the hand well. The pick should be-8 inches long, with teeth on the underside, and the adz and pick of the head should curve so as to coincide with an arc that could be drawn by the ax held at arm's length. The steel should be tough enough to hold an edge well, but not so hard as to crystallize easily. Professional guides scorn a wrist loop, but they, and particularly amateurs, run great risk of losing an ax where they need it most. The loop is secured to a ring that slides on the shaft, being stopped above the point by a round-headed screw or a ring on the ferrule. A satisfactory substitute that will not interfere with probing and is readily adjustable is a loop of rawhide tied to the shaft with a Prusik knot (see p. 187). Most rapid wear will be of the point against rock when the ax is used as a cane. |
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