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Rock pitons.—Various types of pitons may be driven into cracks in the rock to provide a secure point on the cliff to which the rope may be hooked through the spring gate of a carabiner (see fig. 3). If the leading climber falls, he may then be held, pulley-wise, by a man below him. Successive pitons are driven as the climber moves upward. There are four basic types for rock, of which horizontals are most frequently used, verticals least, in a ratio of about 5 to 1: (1) vertical for cracks with flush sides, preferably vertical; (2) horizontal for flush or offset cracks, horizontal or vertical; (3) angle for wide, deep cracks, offset or flush, horizontal or vertical; (4) wafer for cracks that are thin, shallow and flush or with flared opening. A good piton will have a solid head to withstand repeated pounding. Rings, if any, should be securely welded. The metal should not be too hard, thus preventing the piton from "biting" well into the rock. |
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