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Probing. Here the ax is used for safety, testing foreach step the consistency of questionable snow, searchingfor hidden crevasses. Resistance to the ax is being compared, and only experience will tell the climber what thecomparison means. A simple rule, not wholly adequate, is:if the ice ax stops, the snow may hold your weight; if the ax doesn't stop, you had better. If probing is necessary at all, the party should be roped. Glissading. The ice ax serves as a rudder, outrigger,and brake for the climber who wishes to descend snowslopes quickly by sliding on his feet or seated. If the snowsurface is right, christiania swings will work passably wellwithout skis. Skiers should take care, however, that theydevelop a thorough respect for high-mountain snow slopes,which take a heavy toll of the ignorant. Once sliding hasstarted it is not always possible to stop, should the snowslope turn out to have a surprise ending, such as a taluspile, crevasse, or cliff. If the shape and consistency of theslope are not fully known, glissading should be attemptedonly by a roped party, one man moving at a time. Thesitting glissade is swifter than the standing position, butless graceful, wetter, harder to control, and the climber isvulnerable to rocks hidden, but not padded, by snow. |
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