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follow, the reader should see Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills. Body belay.—As on rock, it is better to interpose the resilient and well-positioned frame of the belayer between the climber and the belay anchor wherever possible. Anchors are best achieved through the use of ice bollards or ice pitons, never by means of an unattended ax. A third man may anchor the belayer by using an ax belay. The techniques for belaying will be as described for rock. Remember that sharp ice will abrade a rope as quickly as sharp rock. Boot-ax belay.—The only effective way to anchor the ax is to drive the shaft as far as possible into the snow. The depth of penetration and the snow conditions will directly affect the value of the belay. Ideally, the ax will be driven in to the hilt at the back of a small platform stamped into the snow, pick pointing into the slope. The belayer stands below the ax with the well-weighted uphill boot placed solidly against the shaft. The ax is also braced with the uphill hand. The rope from below crosses the toe of the boot, bends around the shaft and then continues around the boot heel, where the downhill hand controls it. The steeper the slope becomes, the more difficult to operate this belay, in which case (one hopes) ice will be present in which to place a secure ice piton. |
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