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For a summation on belaying that comprehends classical experience, the lessons learned in half a million man-hours of army rock-climbing, and strength of materials as documented by the National Bureau of Standards as well as other authorities, see Belaying the Leader: An Omnibus on Climbing Safety, by Leonard, Wexler, et al., Sierra Club. Use of ice pitons.—Considerable experience is required in driving ice and rock pitons to determine when they are sound. Both may provide excellent security, or may be equally weak. One must drive his own and chop them out, again and again, on practice slopes. Ice pitons have a definite advantage over rock pitons in that they can usually be driven wherever needed. Their weight and expense, however, plus the difficulty of getting them in and out, means that they must be used less lavishly. Many excellent ice-climbers believe that the piton belay alone is justifiable on high-angle ice. The record of casualties in using other types of belay certainly indicates, at least, that something better is desirable. Much further study is needed. |
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