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than a pull at right angles to the shaft. If the pitons are used for tension, it must be remembered that the climber's weight serves to melt the ice around the piton shaft. A toothed edge should hold, however, while the climber's weight is on it—provided his weight is not on it too long. Ice screws have exceptional holding power even on direct pulls. They take more time to place, but do not require the use of a hammer and are easy to remove. A carabiner placed into the ring serves as an effective handle; more leverage is needed if ice screws are placed in fairly hard ice. In such ice this type of anchor may be the only one that can be placed. |
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