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use. After a fall is thus arrested, those persons not directly holding the climber may unrope and assist in retrieving the absent member. (Precaution: there may be another crevasse, still to be discovered.) In all probability the leader, if he fell, should have probed better with his ice ax, and if he suspected unstable snow should have changed his route, or have asked for a belay and then crawled, better to distribute his weight. If there is a crevasse to be jumped, each man should use the broad-jumper's technique, landing with both feet forward, and should continue to roll forward to plant his pick, holding the ax as in a self-arrest. He should not have neglected to secure enough slack rope before the jump. At other times the rope should be held taut enough to prevent unnecessary dragging in the snow and to preclude deep falls into crevasses. |
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