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Team rescue.—Assuming again that one member of a three- or four-man team is down and the fall arrested, one or two persons will immediately be available to begin the rescue. A conscious person can be raised by the Bilgiri method (fig. 25), whereby one belayer above alternately raises one foot sling while the fallen climber slides his own Prusik sling along his anchored climbing rope to provide purchase for the other foot. An ax or heavy clothing placed under the rope at the lip will prevent deep penetration by the moving rope. If the victim is unconscious, a good first-aid procedure would require that the nature of the injury be learned before he is moved. After an assistant has de- |
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