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scended to the victim and prepared him for the evacuation, a pulley system is installed (see "Mountaineering") and the lifting begins. Pulley system.—Set the main anchor far enough back from the crevasse lip to allow work space. An ice ax or ice bollard will suffice, but do not leave the anchor unattended. Presumably, the fallen climber is already being held on anchor and precaution has been taken to prevent the rope's biting into the crevasse edge. Attach a long sling with carabiner to the main anchor. Attach a short Prusik sling to the climbing rope near the edge and a longer Prusik sling just below it. Tie the longer sling onto the original anchor and ease the load over to this sling. The climbing rope is then snapped into the main anchor, brought back and snapped into the short sling (all with carabiners, or preferably, wheeled pulleys), then led up to those doing the hauling. As the rope is pulled up, the short sling moves toward the main anchor carabiner. The hauling stops while the alternate anchor sling takes the load. The short sling is loosened and moved back down the climbing rope for the next haul. This process is repeated until the victim reaches, and is brought over, the top of the crevasse. The pulley system operates much the same on rock terrain except for the differences in anchoring and rope-protection problems. |
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