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Two-man rescue.—If the victim is unconscious, a good first-aid procedure would require that the nature of his injury be learned before he is hauled anywhere. It may further be desirable to tie a second rope or portion of rope to him. The assistant may rappel to the victim for these purposes, climb back up the rappel by methods suggested above, and then assist in the hauling. If the hauling rope is passed through a carabiner in a waist loop on the victim, and one end of the hauling rope is anchored to an ice ax on the far side of the crevasse, the other end may be pulled and the victim raised with a theoretical mechanical advantage of two. He is also much freer of the overhanging lip of the crevasse. Another rope will be needed to get him finally up and out. |
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