Mountaineering Routes : Page 296
The route. He can make a general outline of hiscourse, remembering that on the mountain proper he,like persons who can't see the forest for the trees, maynot see the route for the rock. A sketch may help.
The time. An average yardstick: 21/2 miles per hour for horizontal, and 1,000 feet per hour for vertical distance. The time may be cut; on the other hand, horizontal and vertical speed drops to zero on Mount Everest. A good margin of safety contains a generous margin of time.
The equipment—mechanical and physical. A finalcheck should be made in gentle terrain. Once the partyis on difficult ground, failure of an ax may result in turning back; failure of a man must so result.