Mountaineering Routes : Page 310


Valley glacier.—A smooth valley glacier is the best

avenue of approach to a heavily glaciated region. In 1942 the United States Army's Columbia Icefield Detachment used such a glacier, with only slight modification, as a truck route. During most of the summer season the surface is free from snow, is granular, and provides excellent footing for nailed or Bramani-soled boots. Crevasses are easily seen, and may often be avoided altogether if the climber selects a route along the inside corners of the glacier's turns, where the crevasses are closed by pressure. The ice in the mills and surface-stream channels is very smooth, and is best avoided. The primary hazard is that of avalanche from slopes high above the glacier.

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