Mountaineering Routes : Page 313


Bergschrund.—This crevasse is often a welcome sight, because it is the highest and last crevasse encountered on the ascent of a glacier; conversely, it is a discouraging sight if, as can happen, its upper lip is 40 feet high and overhangs (see the final page). It is usually crossable on a bridge formed by frequent snow slides from the

neve above. Close watch must be maintained for falls of additional bridging material. A shoulder stand may provide all the leader needs to find purchase on the upper lip. The 40-foot, overhanging type might be climb-able with the aid of ice ax, crampons, ice pitons, and a tension belay; chances are, however, it was the wrong route.

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