Mountaineering Routes : Page 325


Warning of a rock fall, if detected, should be a vigorous cry, "Rock!" Other warnings: a whistling sound, a grating, a thunderous crashing, or sparks where the rocks strike at night.

Immediate action is to seek cover—if one can move, and cover is available. If not, the climber should watch the falling rock, present his narrowest profile, and not commit himself until he knows he is in direct peril.

Otherwise he might move into the path of a falling rock by blindly or prematurely trying to avoid it.

Rock-fall danger is minimized by judgment in choice of route; clean and careful climbing will reduce it further. Holds should be tested before use by striking with the heel of the hand or the foot, but not with such vigor or indirection as to launch loose rock on the party below. Careful appraisal will prevent many an insecure rock's being stepped on or grasped. Many insecure rocks should deliberately be moved into safe positions to avoid accidental fall due to action of the rope or to careless movement. The body will not brush rock loose if it is properly balanced—away from the rock. The rear foot is a bad offender, and the climber should know, as he brings it forward, that it will not kick rocks.

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