Rock-Climbing : Page 338


Climbing Control

On steep slopes the climber uses a combination: the balanced movement of a tightrope walker and the unbalanced climbing of a man ascending a tree or ladder. The climber must travel with his weight in poise over his feet or just ahead of them as he moves. His feet, not his hands, carry his weight, except on the steepest cliffs. His hands are for

balance. Feet will not hold well when the climber leans in toward the rock. With his body in balance and his eyes leading the way, the climber moves in a rhythmic slow motion. He uses three points of support (two feet and one hand, for example, but never knee, elbow, and seat) whenever possible, and prefers handholds that are waist- to shoulder-high. He relaxes, because tensed muscles tire quickly; when he rests, it is with his arms low, where circulation is not impaired. He uses small intermediate holds rather than stretching and clinging between widely separated big holds. He avoids the spread-eagle position, in which a man stretches so far he can hardly let go. He climbs sidewise to the rock where he can, rather than hug it too closely. In descents he faces out where the going is easy, sidewise where it is hard, and faces in where it is difficult, looping his rope momentarily over rock points that can serve as intermediate belays; he uses the lowest possible handholds, and never jumps down.

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