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Knots.— (1) The bowline is used for either end man on a rope. It is one of the easiest knots to untie after it has held a heavy load.
The bowline on a coil is used to take up extra ropearound the climber's body, to relieve strain around thewaist in tension climbing, and is used by the faller inpractice belaying. The butterfly knot is used in tying men in to themiddle of a rope. This knot reduces the strength of therope less than other knots. The sheet bend is used in tying two ropes together. The clove hitch is thrown around a pole or ice axto provide a nonsliding anchor. The Prusik knot will hold under stress, and slidewhen the stress is removed. It may be tied with a loop oron a bight. Its ratchet effect has many uses. |
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