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Brace well for the final direction of a fall, so that theforce of the fall will, whenever possible, pull the belay manmore firmly into position. Be able, in case of fall, to perform the followingmovements automatically: (a) Relax feeling hand andmove braking hand in toward body for friction. (6) Letthe rope slide enough to let braking action be appliedgradually, (c) Hold belay position, even if this means letting the rope slide. No one profits if the belayer holds therope so firmly that he is pulled from his belay position. Sitting belay.—This is the preferred position when pi-tons are not in use. The belayer should attempt to get good triangular bracing between his two legs and buttocks. Wherever possible, legs should be straight. The rope should run around the hips at belt level or lower and be above anchoring rope, and braking and feeling hands should be held inside the thighs. If the belay spot chosen is back from the cliff edge, friction of rope over rock will be greater, and will simplify holding of falls, but the direction of the pull on the belayer will be directly outward, and the leader is less easily watched. If the belay spot chosen |
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