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Anchors.—Experience in knowing how heavy a shock a good belay position will withstand will tell the belayer when he should take time to anchor, and when he need not. Until he has that experience, he should not belay a leader. He may anchor either to a rock, piton, or tree, and should ordinarily use two half hitches on a bight around the anchor. Small bushes may serve well if the anchor rope is passed completely around the base. The anchor should be tied with a portion of the climbing rope next to the belayer, and should be tied snugly enough to keep the belayer in position and not allow him to be jerked against the anchor in case of fall. Given a choice between anchoring to a rock point or belaying around it, the belayer should prefer to anchor. |
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