A, the leader, ties in, plans route, and awaits signalfrom B, the belayer.
B ties in, assumes belay position, anchors if necessary, belays, and motions A to climb.
While A climbs, B watches him, the rope, the route,and the rock, and begins to put resistance on the rope gradually when there is 20 feet of slack left, or calls out thenumber of feet.
B anticipates and is prepared for the final directionof pull of any fall.
When new belay position is reached, 10 feet or more
ROCK-CLIMBING 199
from end of rope, A signals "Off belay" (two jerks on taut rope), takes in slack rope, assumes belay position, anchors if necessary, signals "Climb" (two jerks). Whatever belay position A chooses is normally used by B when A continues, and should be strong enough to hold a 10-foot fall —the probable minimum if A slips.