With two ropes of two men on the same route, thesecond leader follows B closely, accepting his upper belayif the pitch is severe and its ascent should be speeded, andanchoring B's belay of A if he is otherwise idle.
Rope of three.—(1) A climbs to the first belay position, brings up B, the second best climber, then continues to the second belay position, anchoring while B brings up C and follows A.
2) C anchors B when not climbing. On traverses, if C is the weakest climber, and A will not require B's better belaying, then C should be in the middle.
Pitons for safety.—The leader uses pitons for protection whenever he feels and before he knows that he is danger-