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Place and test pitons carefully. Choose a route for the rope that will reduce friction—the worst hazard in pitoncraft—where the ropebends around carabiners, binds over rock between pitons,or runs around the belayer's body. The greater the friction,the more the leader must pull on the rope to secure enoughslack for each step, and the more likely is his injury if hefalls. If he foresees that friction will be too great, he maylead with two ropes, snapping one into the carabiners untilfriction is high, tying the first rope into the top piton, andfreeing himself and the second rope, now snapped into thetop carabiner, for further leading, B tending the secondrope. |
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