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Tension climbing.—The belayer, in tension climbing, holds the leader to the rock by means of rope and pitons, the carabiner in each piton serving as a pulley. Thus the leader may be above or to one side of his belayer and still be able to climb, driving pitons successively higher for tension, even though natural holds are absent. Tension climbing is necessary when an easier route cannot be found or used. Often it is used in one or more short, difficult pitches in an otherwise easy route. The tension climber should follow this procedure: Drive pitons no closer together than necessary forsafety. The piton need not be so secure for holding bodyweight as for holding a fall. |
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