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Never hook a finger in a piton, but put in a carabinerand climbing rope, and hold on to them. Use rope slings for foot and hand holds only whentension from the belayer will not hold him, through hishighest piton, high enough on the rock to place a higherpiton, or when the downward moment of the pull of tension on the piton is the safest. Rely on the belayer's tension, keeping both handsfree for the work above. Use alternate (two-rope) tension for the most difficult pitches. Two belayers are desirable to slack off andhold the two ropes alternately as the leader, held by a tautrope, snaps a slack rope in successively higher pitons. |
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