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Fixed ropes and hauling lines.—Passage of a difficult route that must be traveled often, perhaps by heavily loaded persons, may be simplified with fixed ropes and hauling lines. The rope is most helpful if anchored with figure-eight slipknots to carabiners or rope slings at frequent intervals. A better rope is installed if the climber works up from the bottom, belayed from above, and cinches each section as he goes. The line should be close to the rock, so that the hand may be used as a hook, rather than as a clutch. Loads are best hauled in the climbers' packs. If a pitch is too difficult for a heavily loaded man to climb unaided, an endless upper belay loop may be contrived from a second climbing rope and carabiners (2 to diminish friction) that have been anchored above the pitch to serve as a pulley. The loaded climber ties in, then is belayed, or perhaps hauled, from below. All lines should be removed, both to keep the mountain clean and to avoid enticing inexperienced persons who might otherwise try to use them. |
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