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If a route is apt to be dangerous because of stormor avalanche hazard, select alternate routes and escaperoutes, and predetermine how you will use them. Anticipate the condition of the slopes you are tocross. Avoid, first, avalanche hazard; second, slopes thatwill have inadequate or poor snow cover. Take advantageof good snow surface—for instance, an early morningcrust on shaded slopes. Prefer the route that provides most protection fromsudden storm and chilling wind. On hot days avoid,where possible, the hollows filled with stagnant air, oryou may experience glacier lassitude. Seek the more gradual slopes. They are safer andless tiring. The first man, in choosing a line of ascent, |
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